Both worlds away and an easy weekend jaunt, Mexico City is a fascinating culinary and cultural capital.
The menu features inspired versions of historic dishes and family recipes—tostadas of chintextle (a paste of smoked Oaxacan chiles and dried shrimp), fried shallots and pansies; octopus stewed in its ink with pecans, almonds and pinenuts—without a hint of pretension. Theirs may be the only all-Mexican wine list in the city, and in a country where even locals are skeptical of Mexican wines, Lugo’s efforts are heroic. Fun fact: Corkage fees are 10 pesos (under $1) for Mexican wine, 150 pesos for everything else.
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